Virtus

Just a stone's throw from the Aligre market, this handsome dark-blue façade houses a vintage interior, with a hint of Art Deco. It's now the stronghold of a talented couple, Frédéric Lorimier in the kitchen and Camille Gouyer in the dining room, who both come from the Vague d'Or - Cheval Blanc in Saint-Tropez. With a track record among the greats, the chef cooks seasonal produce to the millimeter (on this particular evening, scallops judiciously combined with parsnips), delivering impeccable cooking and beautifully flavored sauces (such as the beurre blanc with grapefruit twist). In the dining room, Camille's service is marked by the same playful seriousness.

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